With a few strategically applied makeup
tricks, it's possible to create the illusion of a perfectly shaped face. You
can downplay the sharpness of a square face, add chiseled cheekbones to a round
face, or de-emphasize a longer face. We're not recommending the piled-on
"contouring" makeup of the past; these tips are more about producing
a subtle effect that's surprisingly simple to achieve.
1. Create a rounded
effect on an elongated face shape.
Have an elongated face shape like Sarah Jessica Parker?
Longo says to start with shading: Use a fluffy brush to blend a matte,
neutral-toned blush or eye shadow along your hairline and chin to create the
illusion of shadows, which will help minimize the length of your face. On eyes,
concentrate color on the outer corners, and keep the color darker at the lash
line; use an eye-shadow brush to blend the color upward. This will help create
a rounder look, as will applying blush in a circular motion to the apples of
the cheeks; applying it along the cheekbone will create an angular effect,
which you want to avoid. Slightly rounding the upper lip line also helps give a
softer, rounded appearance.
2. Add angles to a
round face shape.
A few simple application tips can help give angles to a
round face shape (think: Cameron Diaz). Longo says to focus on creating the
illusion of upward motion with your makeup. On the eyes, draw eye pencil or
shadow up slightly at the outside of your upper lids for a cat's eye effect; finish
by curling only your outer lashes. Give the appearance of a more chiseled look
by applying blush in long strokes toward the ear, shadowing underneath the
cheekbones for a subtle sucked-in-cheeks look. Use lip liner to make the
cupid's bow of your lips a bit more angular and less pouty.
3. Minimize the sharp
lines of a square face.
Strategic shading can help play down the sharp lines of a
square face shape, such as Gwyneth Paltrow's. With a large makeup brush dipped
in neutral blush or eye shadow, sweep color along the four corners of the face
to add some softness. Longo suggests keeping the eyebrows more rounded and
arched rather than straight and angled, which can be too harsh on a square
face. Make sure to keep the inner edges of the brows slightly rounded as well.
On the cheeks, apply blush along the lower part of the apple, in an upward
sweep toward the temples in a U shape to break up sharp angles.
4. Balance the
proportions of a heart face shape.
With a heart face shape, like Rihanna's, the key is to use
makeup to reduce the difference between a wide forehead and a smaller chin so
that they appear more similar in width. Longo says to brush matte neutral eye
shadow or blush along the hinge of the jaw to add shadows and make the face
seem more proportioned. On the eyes, keep your liner and shadow on the lash
line, but avoid extending it outward, and curl only the lashes in the middle.
Apply blush to the apples of the cheeks in a circular motion, and make the lip
lines a touch rounded. These tricks will help create a vertical effect that
gives a more balanced shape to the face.
5. Play up a balanced
oval face shape.
Women with an oval face shape, including Beyoncé, are
lucky to have more flexibility when it comes to makeup application. Longo
suggests a few tricks that can really play up your perfectly proportioned face.
To maintain balance, the arch of your brow should be closer to the temple
instead of above the iris of the eye. Curl all your lashes to give an upward
sweeping appearance, and apply blush in a circular motion on the upper part of
the apple of the cheek. A full, angled lip will give a more sophisticated look
than a rounded effect.
